The Cellar » Oh, how I hate Windows 10

be-bop · 6/16/2021 6:53 am

My morning so-far
11.47 log in my laptop await start up, go to setting to see what up-dates downloading
12-10 because updates are screwing with all my laptops resources (edge, google, duck duck go etc all hanging I do a re-start
12.16 log in await start up
12.20 back to updates in settings to see if updates downloading before re-start have changed
12.29 1 download installing 1 downloading
12.45 edge now working but still slow
12.50 updates down loaded edge working better
For over an hour I've been fecking about trying to use the net...as I've said before I hate windows 10 this shit happens every time I use my laptop I don't have any problem with my desktop upstairs, does anyone else have this problem with win 10 using all the resources when downloading?

tw · 6/16/2021 8:29 am

Every time I solve a problem with Windows slowing down, it is due to some software that has been loaded from other sources. Just removed some software that requires internet connections from a machine that was virtually useless for the first tens minutes. Its not Windows 10. It is what is now loaded on that machine.

In another case, Chinese security software was causing desktops to constantly connect to some unknown IP address. Again, not Windows.

To have a corrupted computer, download free games, download those software problems necessary to download files or programs from websites, or click on anything that is requesting unsolicited actions.

Among the list of suspect software is anything from Facebook or Yahoo's search engine.

ralfy · 11/02/2021 11:03 am

One thing to consider is SSD. It speeds up the system considerably.

tw · 11/03/2021 5:44 pm

Depends on where the bottleneck(s) is. Plenty of places to create a bottleneck - and slower system.

xoxoxoBruce · 11/03/2021 11:58 pm

I read today that SSDs don't like power failures, tend to spaz out destroying data to them. With the increase strain on the grid there will be more of them.

ralfy · 11/08/2021 9:18 pm

Computers don't like power failures. Back up regularly.

nowhereman · 12/08/2021 8:27 am

I mentioned to my studio IT guy that I was going to have to upgrade my main work computer (PC) from Win 8.1 at some point. He immediately begged me NOT to go to Win 11, as he had been trying to get customers' computers working with the new OS and having to return them and get Win 10 machines. (Full disclosure), I still use Win 7 on 2 computers and 8.1 on the main one. Win 7 because I don't want to re-buy software that I only use occasionally.

xoxoxoBruce · 12/09/2021 10:33 pm

I use 7, it works fine for what I want to do.

BigV · 12/09/2021 10:37 pm

vintage, baby.

glatt · 3/22/2023 11:18 am

After 10 years, I just bought a new desktop PC. The old one was working pretty much fine, but I was having issues with double mouse clicks in Citrix, when I only click once, and it was implied that my old machine might be responsible.

I'm a little excited. This should be about 15-20 times faster than my old machine that seemed plenty fast enough itself. It's an Inspiron desktop 3910, with a 12th Gen Intel Core i7 12700 processor, 16GB RAM, and a 1 TB SSD, running Windows 11 Home. One memory slot is open, so I'm considering adding another 16GB RAM, but it's a little pricey after buying a new PC, so I'll just see how things go first.

I haven't hooked it up yet, and will likely set it up this weekend. I needed to order a display port to HDMI adapter so one of my monitors can work in my dual monitor setup.

It comes with a 30 day trial of McAffee. Do I need that? Should I just delete it? I understand that Windows 11 has built in antivirus, and I don't visit sketchy websites as a rule. (Although you never know, if somebody else uses the machine or I click a link by mistake, it may be exposed to something.)

I try to not get too involved in messing with computers, so am ignorant with what I should do first. Should I set up some sort of system restoring or booting drive? Are there any good links to explain doing that?

I'm going to go to Ninite and download a few programs I use. I don't remember how I've set up ad blocking software. What's everyone using these days?

I also need to figure out office. I think I am able to download local copies of Office from 365 to run on up to 4 machines, and think I've reached that number over the years. Does anyone know if I can remotely delete or disable some previous copies so I can load it on this new machine? I thin my mothr in law has a dead laptop with one of those old copies, and I'd love to delete it from that laptop, so I can load it on this machine. Anybody know about enterprise systems like that?

Thanks all!

Clodfobble · 3/22/2023 2:51 pm

My personal opinion of McAfee is it's a total scam that won't actually help with any malware problems you do happen to come across. It's basically malware itself at this point.

Anon · 3/22/2023 5:33 pm

Regarding McAfee, perhaps you remember BigV posting that it's what the federal government uses for devices operating outside of its own secure system. There are practical and political reasons for that.

My experience with using it since the days of Windows XP is that I've never had a malware issue with McAfee installed. I'm currently running Windows 10 and I still prefer McAfee to Windows Security.

I've always used the McAfee AntiVirus Plus. It goes on sale at Amazon for $20 (a year subscription). You can buy an "older version" and it will automatically update itself to the most recent version when installed and continue with updates. I bought several years' worth at that price; so, mine won't expire until late in '26. The things I like:

Tracker Remover - Run it whenever you want or program a schedule. Choose the system files you want it to scan. It tells you how many kb/mb of cookies and temp files it has removed and from where. You can also use it to close all browsers including any running in the background.

Virus Scan - Do a partial or full virus scan at will or on a schedule to make sure the machine is clean.

10 Devices - Continuity of operation. I have it on my notebook, Android tablet, iPad and iPhone.

File Shredder - Say no more.

Then there are all the basics - Firewall, real-time scanning, network status... etc.

It offers a lot of convenience for very little money and is probably a little more effective than what comes with Windows (according to what I've read). Windows comes with a malware removal tool. I've not had to use it with McAfee installed. You might want to give the freebie a try if it has all the features of my version.

tw · 3/22/2023 8:22 pm

I have seen McAfee detect and block malware that infected another (unprotected) computer. This is extremely rare.

Worst problems come from e-mail attachments. Only the e-mail provider appears to protect from that.

Some websites make over 50 other connections to advertisers. That is a most common reason for slow computers. Sometimes those advertisers remain connected to your computer even after a browser program is terminated. Either I close the TCP/IP port. Or must reboot the machine.

One McAfee license can be installed on (if I remember) ten machines.

TheNeverWas · 3/22/2023 8:54 pm

Fuck win11. Fuck it hard. And dry. With a barbed wire dick.

Change for the sake of change.

Diaphone Jim · 3/25/2023 11:26 am

11 on a new HP is twice as aggravating.

griff · 3/25/2023 3:53 pm

I bought a new copier / printer yesterday. I walked right by HP. This thread came to mind. I landed on an Epson tank model. The interface even made sense to me.

Last edited by griff (3/25/2023 3:53 pm)

xoxoxoBruce · 3/25/2023 8:00 pm

griff · 3/26/2023 6:08 am

That's the one!

tw · 3/27/2023 10:33 pm

griff wrote:
That's the one!

Just to know. That one does not measure its ink. Instead it only predicts how much ink should exist by measuring what was printed.

When ink is added, the user must tell that printer how much ink was added. Otherwise it just stops printing- thinking it should be out of ink.

Have not yet calculated the actual ink cost per page.

With early Xerox lasers, it was just under a penny a page.

griff · 3/28/2023 5:47 am

I'll monitor that. thanks

glatt · 4/07/2023 8:56 am

Simple question, and maybe not so simple answer is required.

I have my new computer, and it is nice. Before I stick my old computer into a dark corner of the basement, it occurred to me that I might be able to take the 1TB spinning hard drive out of the old computer and put it in the empty spot in the new computer for extra storage. Assuming I can make the mechanical connection, which I am fairly confident I can, will the new computer be confused when it is booting up and sees an operating system and stuff on the old hard drive, or does it know to ignore that stuff as it looks at the new SSD for the Windows 11 system to boot up? Or do I need to look for the system info on the old hard drive and delete all that? I figure it would be nice to have all my old files readily available in the second drive, so I don't necessarily want to wipe it clean before I install it. Or is the whole idea just really dumb?

Diaphone Jim · 4/07/2023 11:15 am

My nice familiar old computer quit, so I had to buy this totally unsatisfactory new HP with W11.
I think if your old one has any life left, I would save it (and the files on it) for when your new one fails.

Anon · 4/07/2023 2:19 pm

Questions about dual booting different Windows OS on the same machine are more typically about putting a newer version on a device made for the older one (i.e. running WIN 10 and WIN 11 on a WIN 10 machine). There are; however, those like you who want to put an older version OS on a newer machine. This link may be useful to you:

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/how-do-i-install-windows-10-on-a-device-with/aaac6131-3880-4f92-bacc-21126d127941

First contacting the manufacturer to find out if their product can handle it (licensing and drivers) seems to be key to proper functioning.

Before wiping the old spinning hard drive clean to install it for operation by the new OS, I'd want to know that the new machine's organic drivers would work with it; or, others that would are available.

tw · 4/07/2023 9:10 pm

glatt wrote:
Assuming I can make the mechanical connection, ... will the new computer be confused when it is booting up and sees an operating system and stuff on the old hard drive,...

BIOS automatically boots from the boot partition and associate primary partition on the first drive. That automatically loads the OS that is on a first partition.

Then learn how to have the machine boot from various partitions on many drives.

For example, on one machine, I had two drives with various XP and NT operating systems. And two 10 Mb Seagate drives to boot DOS. Menu selected with disk controller, which drive, and which partition to boot from.

Those options setup (if I remember) in a BOOT.INI file. Which is a menu to select which OS to boot from. Or defaults (after a timeout - I selected 10 seconds if I remember) to an OS on a selected (default) partition.

Look for a discussion of rules for that Boot.INI file.

People do same to boot either Windows or Unix on their machine.

Meanwhile, first install that second drive. OS will see it and enable it as just another disk of only data.

Happy Monkey · 4/07/2023 10:12 pm

You may run into some annoyances on file ownership, unless you transfer the user from one computer to the other, or have tied your user to a windows login.